A BUSY DAY.
Day 140 – Today was our last day here at this campsite; tomorrow morning we move on. Because they’re having an issue with the water here, they have closed the campground. They let us stay here because we’d already paid thru tonight and because we agreed not to use the dump station or try to use their water. Not only is the campground closed, but the whole Colonel Allensworth State Historic Park has been closed to incoming visitors. This gave us complete access to the Historic Park today – just us.
This morning we made a batch of egg salad to last for several days’ sandwiches. Then we headed out to try again to find Pixley National Wildlife Refuge. Around here the road names & numbers are a bit misleading & confusing. Yesterday, when we tried to find Pixley, Google took us to Avenue 88. There are both Avenue 88’s and Road 88’s. The correct street is Road 88. There are many other similar situations, like there’s a Road 84 & an Avenue 84, etc. Easy to get lost! Last night after some research, we got the right directions and had no problem finding the Refuge today.
Pixley did not have an auto tour. They did have a 3-mile round trip hike which we did not do. It was just a straight trail that led to some water in the middle of farm fields. What they did have, however, were our old friends, Sandhill Cranes. We got pictures of some in the fields.
We drove back to the RV and spent some time at the campground taking pictures. There are an amazing amount of birds right here.
Then we walked over to the State Historic Park and walked through almost the whole town, visiting most of the buildings and reading the historical markers. The history of Allensworth follows, then our pictures from our visit.
COLONEL ALLENSWORTH STATE HISTORIC PARK, from the brochure of the same title, by California State Parks, 2012. “In the southern San Joaquin Valley, a modest but growing assemblage of restored and reconstructed buildings marks the location of Colonel Allensworth State Historic Park. A schoolhouse, a Baptist church, businesses, homes, a hotel, a library, and various other structures symbolize the rebirth of one man’s dream of an independent, democratic town where African Americans could live in control of their own destiny. On the horizon stretch level farmlands, county roads, and the seemingly endless tracks of the Santa Fe rail line. In this part of the valley, summer temperatures can reach 100 degrees or more, but winters are generally mild.”
“Allen Allensworth, A Visionary: Colonel Allen Allensworth – Army chaplain, educator, orator and town founder – was born into slavery in Louisville, Kentucky on April 7, 1842. Intelligent and eager for knowledge, he was encouraged by his mother to learn to read and write by playing school with the master’s son. At 12 he was sent away for violating the law that prohibited the education of slaves. In 1862 he fled slavery to join the Union Navy and was honorably discharged as a chief petty officer.
After the Civil War, the Colonel achieved the formal education he had been denied. In 1877 he married Josephine Leavell, a schoolteacher, music teacher, and gifted musician, and they raised two daughters. In 1866, with a doctorate of theology, Allensworth became chaplain to the 24th Infantry, one of the Army’s four African American regiments. He retired a lieutenant colonel in 1906 – the first African American to attain such high rank.”
“The Town of Allensworth: Retirement found the Colonel lecturing throughout the eastern and mid-western states promoting Booker T. Washington’s philosophy of African American self-reliance. They both firmly believed that, through education and hard work, African Americans could rise above the effects of slavery, attain greater social stature, and more fully realize their potential as a people.
The Allenworths settled in Los Angeles, and in 1906 the Colonel met Professor William Payne, an educator whose family had recently moved to Pasadena. With a mutual desire to live in an environment where Blacks could live free from discrimination, they merged their values with those of other pioneers of like mind to establish an independent, self-sufficient colony. They formed the California Colony and Home Promotion Association in 1908 and purchased 800 acres along the Santa Fe rail line from the Pacific Farming Company, at a rail stop called Solita. In 1909 the colony of Allensorth began to rise from the flat countryside – the first town in California founded, financed, and governed by Black Americans.
The name & reputation of Col. Allensworth inspired African Americans who were looking for a better life. People from all over the country, including many who were already settled in California, came to populate the town. In some cases, people who never lived in the town purchased property sight-unseen to help the cause. The town of Allensworth enjoyed great success and was the focus of considerable interest.
By 1910 residents had built a small school. Two years later Allensworth became California’s first African American school district, and in 1914 the town became a judicial district. When rapid growth necessitated the construction of a larger school, Mrs. Allensworth turned the old school building into the Mary Dickenson Memorial Library in honor of her mother. Reflecting his love for education and his desire to share it with others, Colonel Allensworth donated his extensive private book collection to the library. Later, Tulare County made the library part of its free system and supplied it with 50 books per month.”
“Water: Soon after settlement began, it became obvious that water would be a problem. In 1913 residents formed the Allensworth Rural Water Company and took control of the water system from Pacific Farming Company. Unable to raise the funds necessary to drill more wells or improve their existing system, Allensworth had a seriously lowered water table by 1914.”
“The Decline: 1914 was a difficult year for the town. When the Santa Fe Railroad moved its rail stop from Allensworth to Alpaugh that July, much of Allensworth’s economic base was lost. On September 15, 1914, the town suffered its most significant setback – the tragic death of their inspirational leader. Colonel Allensworth was in Monrovia, California preparing to preach at a small church. As he crossed a street, he was struck by two men on a motorcycle. After the Colonel’s death, the struggle to survive became more difficult. Drought, poor crop yields, and a failing water supply became hopeless obstacles. When an economic slum followed World War I, residents left in search of a better living. The town’s decline gathered momentum. In the 1960’s, after arsenic was found in the water supply, the town of Allensworth was scheduled for demolition. By 1973 it no longer appeared on the California map.
“A Town Revived: However, the dream of Colonel Allensworth was not dead. The spark has been rekindled by a group of dedicated individuals – including some former residents – who continue to advocate for growth and development of this vital cultural resource. Events scheduled throughout the year bring the town to life and inspire a new interest in returning Allensworth to its glory days as a vibrant, successful town. About 70,000 visitors come annually from all over California and from out of state to experience this unique and historically important town.”
“In 1908 a group of African Americans led by Colonel Allen Allensworth founded a town that would combine pride of ownership, equality of opportunity, and high ideals. Today California State Parks is committed to the town’s renaissance as a living example of the American spirit.”
This park is supported in part through a nonprofit organization. For more information, contact Friends of Allensworth, Star Route 1, Box 148, Earlimart, CA 93219. (661) 849-3433. www.friendsofallensworth.com. California State Parks, P.O. Box 942896, Sacramento, CA 94296: for information call (800) 777-0369; www.parks.ca.gov. The Colonel Allensworth State Historic Park is ten miles southwest of Earlimart, CA on County Road J22. From Highway 99, take County Road J22 west to Highway 43 south and turn into the park at Palmer Avenue.
After lunch we drove back to Kern National Wildlife Refuge for Day 3. We’d had so much luck the past few days there, and we just had to do it one more time. Those pictures follow:
We got back to the RV at dinner time. We had a good stay here and would come back again. It was a great place to relax and unwind from the busier cities. We found that Pixie had not moved from the position she was in when we left.
Kern National Wildlife Refuge: A wildlife refuge in Kern County, CA, Kern is an 11,249-acre protected area located in the southern portion of California’s San Joaquin Valley, 20 miles west of the city of Delano. Approximately 8,200 people per year visit the Refuge. There is an Auto Route with two loops. There are interpretive programs, hiking trails, and photography opportunities. Address – 10811 Corcoran Road, Delano, CA 93215. Phone – (661)725-2767. Managed by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service. Established in 1960.
Pixley National Wildlife Refuge: Pixley is a wildlife refuge in Tulare County, CA. It is located 35 miles south of Tulare, CA and 45 miles north of Bakersfield in the San Joaquin Valley. Pixley encompasses almost 11 square miles and was established in 1959. It is managed by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service. Visitors to the Refuge may be surprised to see that it is home to small, seasonal marsh wetlands. What they may not know is that it has some of the last significant acres of Southern San Joaquin Valley grassland habitat. This habitat type provides nesting, foraging, and cover for a variety of species including the threatened Tipton Kangaroo Rat, the Blunt-Nosed Leopard Lizard, and the endangered San Joaquin Kit Fox. During the winter months, it is the best place in the Southern San Joaquin Valley to view Sandhill Cranes. Physical Address – Road 88, Pixley, CA. Mailing address and Phone are the same as Kern National Wildlife above.
For more detailed information about John L. Whitehead, Jr. Campground at Colonel Allensworth State Historic Park, click here.